Track a coastal sediment cell before calling redistribution a loss
Waves approaching obliquely can drive longshore transport, while rivers supply sediment and offshore pathways remove or temporarily store it. Beaches, spits and bars are parts of a connected sediment system. A change at one beach does not necessarily equal the net change of the whole coastal cell.
Learning outcome: Change river supply and alongshore export separately. Close the bulk-volume ledger and convert to equivalent width only after stating the fixed profile. Reclassify an offshore bar as inside versus outside the boundary and explain the changed accounting.
Starting recap
Preserve flux, storage, geometry and source boundaries. Distinguish actual discharge records from original process models and conditional interpretations.
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River input 2000, longshore input 3000, longshore export 4000 and offshore export 1000 sum to zero storage change. Large active transport coexists with zero net cell gain; it does not mean every beach point is stationary.
Open the experimentPredict
Can one beach retreat while the whole sediment cell has zero net storage change?
Experiment
Change river supply and alongshore export separately. Close the bulk-volume ledger and convert to equivalent width only after stating the fixed profile. Reclassify an offshore bar as inside versus outside the boundary and explain the changed accounting.
Separate redistribution within a sediment cell from net loss
Worked teaching model · synthetic values · Original coastal cell: longshore import3000, offshore export1000, river inputa and longshore exportb m³/year. Net bulk volume=a+2000−b. Uniform beach length1000 m and active profile height10 m convert volume to width change. Fixed geometry, no porosity conversion or sea-level rule.
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A coastal cell can redistribute sediment internally without losing the same amount across its outer boundary.
Spits, bars and beaches respond to transport gradients and wave conditions. A temporary offshore bar inside the chosen cell is storage, not necessarily permanent export. The equivalent-width conversion assumes fixed geometry and is not a shoreline forecast.
| Quantity | Value | Unit |
|---|---|---|
| River input | 2000 | m³/year |
| Longshore input | 3000 | m³/year |
| Longshore export | 4000 | m³/year |
| Offshore export | 1000 | m³/year |
| Net cell storage change | 0 | m³/year |
| Uniform equivalent beach-width change | 0 | m/year |
A coastal cell can redistribute sediment internally without losing the same amount across its outer boundary.
Spits, bars and beaches respond to transport gradients and wave conditions. A temporary offshore bar inside the chosen cell is storage, not necessarily permanent export. The equivalent-width conversion assumes fixed geometry and is not a shoreline forecast.
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With river input 0 and longshore export 5000 m³/year, find storage and equivalent width change.
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